Sprinkle with the chopped tarragon or chives, decorate with the chive flowers, if desired, and serve..
Yao's three-cup cover takes the form of a paste, rubbed into curls of octopus or painted on buckwheat crackers sandwiching sweet raw scallops.Thick corn soup is a Taiwanese lunch-box staple; Yao also borrows from congees and egg drops for his luxe rendition, which surrounds a brilliant yellow yolk.
These are flossy ideas, evidence of a thoughtful cook.But the dish that cemented Yao as a Best New Chef is also his most modest: Delicate branzino and ribbons of scallion scorched with burning-hot oil, a Taiwanese method that adjusts the scallion's brightness from mellow flicker to floodlight.Tasting it for the first time is a bit like opening Dorothy's farmhouse door and stepping into the Technicolor Land of Oz.
When it comes to succeeding as a chef, there's nothing wrong with taking the established route.But every once in a while you find a chef who's cut their own path.. 08. of 10.
Julia Sullivan—Henrietta Red, Nashville.
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